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![]() Leftheris, Hellenic Adventures |
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![]() Greek Islands usually have in common ancient temples and medieval fortresses on their highest points, overlooking snug, picturesque harbor towns. Alison Gardner |
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| As with anywhere in the world, inter-island travel can be a challenge. The most common culprits on my Greek Island exploration with cultural tour specialist, Hellenic Adventures, proved to be a couple of days of unseasonably blustery weather that played havoc with the timing of ship connections, and a 24-hour general strike. A sense of humor and a fast-thinking, creative tour guide saw us through these tests that quickly became sources of added adventure and some just plain funny, occasionally insightful, journal entries in our collective daily diary. |
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| Greece
and its islands embrace thousands of years of well documented history: the introduction
of bronze sparked three remarkable civilizations about 3,000 BC: the Cycladic
rule in the cluster of islands to the southeast, the Minoan rule on Crete and
the Mycenaean on the Greek mainland. |
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![]() Minoan fresco at Knossos, Crete. Alison Gardner |
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| Patmos, our first island sleepover, has long been a place of pilgrimage for Christians. Exiled by the Romans in 95 AD, a very elderly St. John the Apostle lived in a cave on what was then a desolate, uninhabited island while he wrote the biblical Book of Revelation. A thousand years later, a Byzantine emperor gave permission to build a formidable castle monastery that continues to be a central focus of island interest to this day, and the host for a stunning collection of religious murals, icons and architecture. Resisting the influx of mass tourism, the island has thus far declined to build an airport, so it is accessible only by boat. Once we actually got there, two days on the island restored all our tranquility. |
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| After
an overnight cruise pointing southeast aboard a large ferry stuffed with people
and vehicles, we stepped onto the island of Rhodes.
It has been a prized possession of many rulers throughout Mediterranean history,
not only coveted from earliest times for its strategic military and trading
location just off the Anatolian (Turkish) coast but also for its school of public
speaking and its outstanding athletic contributors to the Greek world. |
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| Above Right: The Italian restoration of the main entrance to Rhodes'
medieval city. Alison Gardner Left: Hundreds of resident cats in Rhodes' old quarter mingle peaceably with appreciative visitors.Alison Gardner |
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| The island was seized in 1522 by the Ottoman Turks and ruled as part of their vast empire until 1912 when the Italians and Greeks joined forces to show them the door. Alas, Italian authorities then took on the role of oppressor. In the 1930s, Italian dictator, Mussolini, mobilized a large army of architects, archaeologists and masons to completely restore (and even redesign parts of) the old city with an eye to making it a suitable summer palace for himself and the Italian king. World War II put a permanent stop to that great idea. |
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| Our
first glimpse of Crete
was from an airplane, about the same distance as from Patmos to Rhodes, but
achieved in 45 minutes flying time instead of 8 1/2 hours by ferry. Three days to explore
such a large, intriguing, and geographically challenging island was far too
short. However, the mighty Greek god, Zeus, would have been impressed with our
efforts to see as much of his birthplace as we could cram in. |
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| Knossos mosaic floors lay protected
beneath volcanic ash until excavations began in 1900 AD.Alison
Gardner |
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| Excavation of the extensive Minoan palace complex of Knossos, with structures dating from 1900 BC, has produced some of the most recognizable frescoes and mosaics of the ancient world. Among the treasures discovered intact was a modest-sized throne for the mighty Minoan king, dating from 1400 BC. Today, a copy of this oldest known throne in the world is used by the High Court Justice at the International Court of The Hague. |
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| The restored and invitingly strollable Venetian quarter of Chania, Crete's second city and former capital, reveals tiny streets with finely-restored mansions, historic hotels, and restaurants full of Cretan delectables. During its 300-year Venetian occupation beginning in the 13th century, Chania's highly defensible harbor boasted 17 covered waterfront dockyards for maintenance of large and small sailing ships, frequently mobilized to fight Turkish pirates like Barbarossa. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Our last island three-night stop before returning to Athens was picture-postcard Santorini. After a two- hour ferry ride from Crete, we docked at the bottom of a shear 1,000-foot cliff on the stroke of midnight and switchbacked our way to the top in a stream of vehicle tail lights under sparkling stars in a black velvet sky. Arrivals don't get more dramatic than that! |
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| Now
defining the edge of a huge volcanic caldera (crater formed by a collapsed volcanic
cone), Santorini remains an active volcanic zone with the low island in the
middle still spewing lava and steam. Such bird's-eye vistas are mesmerizing
from each private terrace of Homeric-Poems Studios. Alison Gardner |
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| However,
Santorini is much more than a pretty face. Between 2000 and 1650 BC, it was
influenced and occupied by the Minoans from Crete. It boasted sophisticated
towns like Akrotiri, whose present-day excavation continues to generate plenty
of excitement in the archaeological world and with visitors. About 1650 BC,
one of the most powerful volcanic eruptions on earth blew the center out of
Santorini (up to then, known as Round Island), leaving only a thin circle of
land above the sea's surface, and effectively triggering the decline of Minoan
influence in the eastern Mediterranean. Many scholars today believe that the
watery grave to which most of Santorini was consigned 3,600 years ago gave birth
to the romantic myth surrounding the lost continent of Atlantis. |
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FOLLOW UP FACTS |
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Click on the picture for a gallery of Greek icons by our talented artist/guide. |
Click on picture for a humorous daily journal from our eventful Greek Islands tour. |
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Alison
Gardner is a travel journalist, magazine editor, guidebook author, and consultant.
She specializes in researching alternative vacations throughout the world, suitable
for people over 50 and for women travelers of all ages. She is also the publisher
and editor of Travel with a Challenge Web magazine. |
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