{"id":10248,"date":"2018-02-18T06:09:14","date_gmt":"2018-02-17T22:09:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/?page_id=10248"},"modified":"2024-02-28T17:08:15","modified_gmt":"2024-02-29T01:08:15","slug":"italy-rome-underground","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/?page_id=10248","title":{"rendered":"Exploring Ancient Rome Underground"},"content":{"rendered":"

Exploring Ancient Rome Underground<\/h1>\n
\"Rome-Italy-Colosseum\"
Rome\u2019s Colosseum seated 80,000 spectators. <\/em>\u00a9Through Eternity Tours<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Treasures of the Roman Empire<\/h2>\n

by Marianne Scott<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n
<\/span><\/div>\n

Many travelers fantasize about being able to leap centuries, imagining themselves in a future utopia or experiencing a medieval joust. So when my husband, David, was speaking at a climate change conference in Rome, Italy, I chose to time travel in a real place in real time by touring some of Rome\u2019s underground sites. More than once, I wondered if I would have walked Rome\u2019s streets as an affluent housewife or as a slave!
\nWithout knowledgeable guides, I wouldn\u2019t have appreciated the rich history and evolution of the three churches\/crypts I visited on my first tour, nor the Palatine Hill and Colosseum on the second. Booking with small-group operator, Through Eternity Tours<\/strong>, I met two guides, Gracelynn Monaco and Enrica Armementa, both well schooled in Rome\u2019s heritage.<\/span><\/p>\n

Like most ancient metropolises, Rome, 2,700 years old, is a city of buried history. Gracelynn called Rome the \u201cbig lasagna,\u201d while Enrica described it as a \u201cfat layer cake.\u201d Rome\u2019s architectural environment is a tale of continuous building, tearing down, recycling stone and debris, rebuilding after fires and incorporating fallen masonry after earthquakes. When consuls and emperors succeeded each other\u2014often resulting from assassination\u2014they renovated or rebuilt the palaces of their predecessors on Palatine Hill\u2014the highest of Rome\u2019s seven hills. \u201cI wish we could X-ray the ground beneath us,\u201d said Gracelynn. \u201cMuch of Rome is interred beneath its own remains in layers up-to-30 feet deep. Only three percent has been excavated.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Rome-Palatine-Hill\"
Remnants of walls and palaces run deep and wide across Palatine Hill, the centermost of the Seven Hills of Rome. <\/em>\u00a9Marianne Scott<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On my first day, Gracelynn, seven others and I met outside the Basilica San Clemente<\/strong>, named after the first-century Pope Clement. The hollowed-out threshold\u2014worn by millions of footfalls\u2014gives entry into the richly decorated Romanesque-style church built between 1098 and 1125. \u201cSee those pillars,\u201d Gracelynn pointed. \u201cThey\u2019re marble, granite and other stone. All recycled from other sites. In Latin, it\u2019s called scolia<\/em>, or \u2018spoils.\u2019 Those mosaic floors were also carved from leftover stone, some incorporating prized Egyptian porphyry.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Rome-San-Clemente-Mosaic-Floor\"
San Clemente\u2019s mosaic floor made from pirated pieces of stone including red porphyry. <\/em>\u00a9Marianne Scott<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the 1850s, Irish Dominican priest\/archaeologist Joseph Mullooly began excavating the 4th century Christian basilica beneath San Clemente, installing staircases and reinforcements. Sniffing the earthy scents as we descended the staircase, we found remnants of the fourth-century Christian church with large blocks of tufa (a form of limestone) supporting the weight of the basilica above. Nineteenth-century fading copies of original frescoes depicting Christian scenes festoon the walls. Bits of sculptures and relics are imbedded in the buttressing walls\u2019 plaster.<\/p>\n

\"Mithraic-Altar-under-San-Clemente\"
The Mithraic altar in the third underground level of San Clemente. <\/em>\u00a9Through Eternity Tours<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Then, a surprise on the third level down. I\u2019d read about the rivalry between the worshippers of Jesus and Mithras in the first three centuries AD. A mithraeum, a shrine displaying statuary of this disappeared cult was near the old Christian church. \u201cMithraism attracted soldiers and didn\u2019t allow us women to take part in their rites,\u201d said Gracelynn. \u201cThat altar reflects the belief that Mithras was born from a rock. He\u2019s plunging a sword into a sacred bull.\u201d<\/p>\n

We emerged from the dark caverns to walk a quarter hour in glorious October sunshine to the church of Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo <\/strong>(Saint John and Paul), who are thought to be Christian martyrs. The edifice has had many iterations and has no pastoral function today, but is a popular wedding venue.<\/p>\n

\"Stairs-to-Underground-Excavations\"
The descent to the deep excavation under the Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo. A long way down and back up! <\/em>\u00a9Marianne Scott<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Descending to the crypt excavated between 1857 and 1958, we found many colorful, well preserved frescoes, intricate brickwork, living quarters, parts of apartment buildings and a wealthy family\u2019s mansion. I was pleased to see how Romans had increased comfort by including a bathhouse, fountain and latrines. Like many places today, the mansion had replaced former, lower-status apartment buildings when the area was gentrified.<\/p>\n

\"Rome-Underground-Apartment\"
Remnant of an apartment under the Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Brickwork has been added for stability. <\/em>\u00a9Marianne Scott<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

To reach San Nicola in Carcere (St. Nicholas in Prison), we strolled past the Circus Maximus, an immense area where the horse races of republican Rome were held (reminding me of Ben Hur), and reached our third subterranean site. Again, it\u2019s a church of many layers, with six columns from the 200 BC temple of Juno embedded in its 10th-century church\u2019s outside wall. Three temples (honoring Juno, Janus and Spes) and remnants of an Etruscan vegetable market and slave market rest under the church. The temples once served as a jail.<\/p>\n

\"Model-of-Church-and-Buried-Temples\"
Model of San Nicolo in Carcere (left) and three Roman temples buried below the church. <\/em>\u00a9Marianne Scott<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

According to Roman mythology, the Palatine Hill<\/strong>, part of my second-day tour, contained the cave where twins Romulus and Remus were found by the she-wolf Lupa, who suckled them. Later, in a power struggle, Romulus killed Remus, became king and named the city after himself.<\/p>\n

Enrica led us on a brisk walk up the most central of Rome\u2019s seven hills, rising 40 meters\/131 feet above the Roman Forum\u2014once the site of market places and a location for celebrating military victories. From on high, I relished the terrific views we had of these mythic places, now containing a hodgepodge of preserved and ruined buildings, pillars, arches, walls, niches, bits of mosaics, courtyards and the remains of palaces. Some excavations show former underground chambers; other wall openings reveal dwellings and meeting places. What especially caught my eye are the many levels of \u201cthe big layer cake\u201d revealed by the hill\u2019s sides.<\/p>\n

\"Palatine-Hill-Excavation\"
An object lesson shows why the Palatine Hill resembles a big layer cake. <\/em>\u00a9Marianne Scott<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Palatine Hill was the favorite dwelling place of Rome\u2019s affluent one percent. \u201cIts height provided cool breezes and rose above the Tiber\u2019s frequent floods,\u201d said Enrica. \u201cThese people had running water. There were tunnels where slaves would light fires to heat the floors of rooms above. When emperor Augustus took office (27 BC), it became the residence of emperors alone. And after the great fire, Nero rebuilt his palace here.\u201d<\/p>\n

Along the paths, placards describe the structures left in place, and which potentate was responsible for their construction. I learned that Rome lost much population after the Teutonic tribes ended the empire around 475 AD. \u201cAs buildings were abandoned, people used whatever they could carry away,\u201d said Enrica. \u201cAfter the 10th-century earthquake, stone-robbers got more pieces. It was the original \u2018reuse, waste nothing.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Rome-Colosseum-Underground-Passages\"
A view of the Colosseum\u2019s underground passages where workers, gladiators and wild animals mingled. <\/em>\u00a9Through Eternity Tours<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My visit to the underground portions of the Colosseum<\/strong>\u2014 the largest amphitheater ever built\u2014completed our tour. This six-acre site has a similar evolving past as the other buildings I\u2019d visited. Emperor Vespasian started it in AD 72; the theater could hold up to 80,000 fans who came to watch gladiator fights, animal hunts, mock sea battles and executions. After the sack of Rome by invading Visigoths in August 410AD, this city\u2019s vast structure was used for housing, workshops and a monastery. This was the first time in almost 800 years that Rome had fallen to a foreign enemy.<\/p>\n

\"Colosseum-Underground-Passage\"
A Colosseum underground passage showing original brick work. <\/em>\u00a9Marianne Scott<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We walked among many corridors that divide the Colosseum\u2019s central oval. The chambers that once housed lions and gladiators gave me twinges of distress. A replica of a cage showed how a system of ropes and pulleys could lift lions through trapdoors to the spectacle floor. This history is real, but the fact that men, trained to fight to the death or defending themselves against hungry predators, is horrifying. Yet these bloodsports\u2014and the bets placed on their outcomes\u2014were part of the popular entertainment that kept the populace from revolution.<\/p>\n

\"Colosseum-Underground-Restoration\"
Repairs continue on the Colosseum underground. <\/em>\u00a9Through Eternity Tours<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My two tours were a terrific introduction to a small part of this multi-layered city. Although these sites can be visited on one\u2019s own, having a well-informed guide makes the history and evolution of these churches and heritage venues vastly richer.<\/p>\n

Follow Up Facts<\/span>Many underground tours are available in Rome; to see all the sites could take months. I chose Through Eternity Tours <\/strong>(www.througheternity.com\/<\/a>) because they lead small groups and my time was limited. Registration on line is the easiest way to secure a spot and it provides detailed instructions on public transport.
\nThe first day lasted four hours, including the walks between the three venues; the second Underground Rome Tour<\/a>, lasted about 6.5 hours, with a short break for lunch. To participate, you must be able to walk for those number of hours and capable of climbing hills and stairs. Floors underground are often uneven and lighting is sparse. I brought a small flashlight, snack and water. Sturdy walking shoes are a must.<\/span><\/p>\n

Based in Victoria, British Columbia, Marianne Scott<\/strong> writes for numerous publications in the U.S., Canada and the UK. She also writes as a volunteer for some non-profit organizations. Marianne is the author of Naturally Salty \u2014 Coastal Characters of the Pacific Northwest<\/strong>, and Ocean Alexander, the First 25 Years<\/strong>. Her email is mariannescott@scottpoint.ca<\/a>. <\/p>\n

Enjoy all articles by Marianne Scott in our feature article collection:<\/strong>
\nA Walk Through Berlin\u2019s Public Art<\/a>
\nMusic Sounds Better by the Sea<\/a>
\nSpain\u2019s Self-Catering Apartments or Hotel Accommodation: Which Works Best?<\/a>
\nAn Exploration of Oregon\u2019s Wild Pacific Coast<\/a>
\nA Geological Adventure in Utah\u2019s National Parks<\/a>
Nine Tips for Safe, Sane Travel with Family, Friends, or Strangers<\/a>
\nCruise British Columbia’s Working West Coast<\/a>
\nExploring Ancient Rome Underground<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Exploring Ancient Rome Underground Treasures of the Roman Empire by Marianne Scott Many travelers fantasize about being able to leap centuries, imagining themselves in a future utopia or experiencing a medieval joust. So when my husband, David, was speaking at a climate change conference in Rome, Italy, I chose to time travel in a real […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/10248"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10248"}],"version-history":[{"count":27,"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/10248\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":15238,"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/10248\/revisions\/15238"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10248"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}