{"id":12726,"date":"2020-04-21T06:42:35","date_gmt":"2020-04-20T22:42:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/?page_id=12726"},"modified":"2023-11-02T13:48:38","modified_gmt":"2023-11-02T20:48:38","slug":"cruise-british-columbias-working-west-coast","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/?page_id=12726","title":{"rendered":"Marine Wildlife Viewing on a Freighter Cruise"},"content":{"rendered":"

Marine Wildlife Viewing on a Freighter Cruise<\/h1>\n
\"Logging-Camp-Beaver-Cove\"
A remote logging camp near Alert Bay and Port McNeill with bunkhouse, booms, logs and other equipment.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

British Columbia’s Working West Coast<\/h2>\n

Story and images by Marianne Scott<\/h3>\n

On a sunny Tuesday afternoon in August, we crossed Aurora Explorer\u2019s<\/em> lowered ramp to enter its deck filled with trucks, forklifts, bundled cable, diesel tankers, dumpsters and shrink-wrapped mattresses. The 135-foot landing craft delivers freight and hosts 12 passengers on each of its five-day runs, switching weekly between the protected northeast coast of Vancouver Island and the British Columbia mainland.<\/p>\n

\"Islands-and-Mountain-Tops-Broughton-Archipelago\"
A typical layered view from hundreds of islands right up to mountaintops. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The ship\u2019s delivery and pick-up of equipment determines its schedule; the itinerary may change, sometimes even in the middle of a tour. My husband, David, and I, along with two Torontonian friends, Jim and Carol, had signed up for two back-to-back tours, allowing us to experience the expansive fjords, wildlife, fish farms, logging camps, resorts and small towns around the Discovery Islands and the Broughton Archipelago.<\/p>\n

David and I have been avid sailors for decades, having put 30,000 nautical miles under the keels of several boats. Alas, David\u2019s mobility issues forced us to sell our last sailboat and we\u2019ve deeply missed our waterborne voyages that had taken us to French Polynesia, the Baltic, the Atlantic and to Alaska from our home city of Victoria, British Columbia. Aurora Explorer<\/em> offered us a chance to revisit our beloved watery backyard\u2014without having to navigate or cook.<\/p>\n

Welcome to the Working West Coast<\/h3>\n

Once aboard and after the required safety drill, Capt. Ron Stevenson said we were slightly behind schedule. \u201cA client wanted us to offload his truck at the last second. Naturally, it was in the back of the freight platform, so the crew scrambled to unload the stuff near the bow, then reloaded the ship.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Aurora-Explorer-Lunch-Buffet\"
A typical Aurora Explorer lunchtime cold buffet. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Over a delicious dinner, we met the other passengers, who hailed from BC and neighboring Washington state. Everyone socialized madly, with the usual questions, \u201cwhere are you from, is this your first trip aboard Aurora Explorer<\/em>?\u201d Overnight in Hemming Bay, the crew lashed us safely to the sidestick of a log raft in a booming ground.<\/p>\n

The next morning, clouds created dark streaks on the sun-dappled sheer mountains while we ate breakfast. The crew was busy organizing the first drop-off. We inched up to the shore and the bow\u2019s lowered ramp let the ship \u201cpush the beach,\u201d allowing freight to be delivered to locations lacking docks and roads. The crew fork-lifted four 30-foot culvert pipes to the Sonora Resort on Calm Channel. All the passengers hung out on the balcony questioning if this simple vehicle could carry that length of pipe up an incline. It can!<\/p>\n

\"Aurora-Explorer-Freight-Delivery\"
Aurora Explorer fully loaded for freight delivery. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Afterwards, the forklifts reorganized the deck freight so the next delivery would be waiting at the bow. Their quick dashes resembled a ballet.<\/p>\n

We motored through heavy currents, the sea laden with free-floating logs. Misty mountains were blanketed with endless conifers. Suddenly, the captain idled the ship\u2019s engines. On an islet\u2019s flat rocks, a family of sealions cavorted, the sun having dried their pelts to a copper sheen. Our cameras clicked madly.<\/p>\n

\"Humpback-Whale-Breaching\"
Humpback whale breaching \u201cagain\u201d. <\/em>\u00a9Carol Moore-Ede<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At the next stop, the mattresses were forklifted to a newly built, off-the-grid cottage, along with other shrink-wrapped furniture. We then delivered empty dumpsters and collected full ones at a resort. Meanwhile, passenger Tom, a forestry expert, explained the different ways of harvesting timber.<\/p>\n

Logging camps abound in these waters, with loggers living in dormitory-style bunkhouses perched on barges. At one camp, after filling a diesel tank from the ship\u2019s tanker, two monster logging machines\u2014reminding me of Battle of the Bulge military tanks\u2014crunched aboard on their tracks. Later, I snuck down to see up close and noted one machine is a delimber\u2014it scrapes branches and bark from newly cut trunks. The other machine displayed a heavy-duty steel blade that fells trees in minutes. The blade\u2019s jagged teeth made me want to keep my legs far away. The logging equipment\u2019s weight, combined with the other freight, had lowered Aurora Explorer<\/em> to its top Plimsoll line. \u201cThey wanted me to take another truck aboard,\u201d said Capt. Ron, \u201cbut I told them we\u2019d reached the safety limit. We\u2019re carrying between 130-140 tons.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Helicopter-Logging\"
A heli-logger dives down to pick up a tree trunk. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Later, we watched in fascination as a helicopter dove down into a small clearcut to grapple a log, lift it and then drop it into the fjord.<\/p>\n

Every day brought different experiences. Meals were especially intense conversation events among the congenial passengers, although politics were mostly avoided. Further discussions followed when we lounged in our chairs on the deck. In Bute Inlet, the engine racket suddenly stopped. The captain had halted the engines having spied two humpbacks. They swam up to the ship and put on a show\u2014they rolled, dove and surfaced, breathed, breached and slapped their tails. We were enthralled, and even the crew, who often sight whales, hung spellbound over the railings.<\/p>\n

After spending two days on Quadra Island between tours, we boarded Aurora Explorer<\/em> again and this time, cruised among the Broughton Archipelago\u2019s islands. Fellow passengers came from as far away as Bermuda and New Jersey. Our hope for orca sightings was dashed, but instead, we were treated to hundreds of white-sided dolphins that leapt and frolicked ahead of us, their dorsal fins slicing through the briny.<\/p>\n

\"Pacific-White-Sided-Dolphin\"
A white sided dolphin slices through the waves beside our vessel. <\/em>\u00a9Carol Moore-Ede<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fish farms are big business in these waters and as they strongly discourage sailboat visits, David and I had never seen one up close. Venture Point Fish Farm contains 20 ponds surrounded by walkways. The ponds are netted on all sides\u2014keeping eagles, seals and other predators from scavenging. The ponds\u2019 surface was in constant motion as salmon hopped up, then thumped back down.<\/p>\n

Aurora Explorer<\/em> delivered 40,000 litres of diesel there. \u201cWhy do they need that much fuel?\u201d I asked the captain. \u201cThe larger fish farms may have up to three-quarters of a million fish in the ponds,\u201d he answered. \u201cThat could be two million kilos of salmon. The diesel runs compressors that push up oxygenated water to help keep the fish healthy and prevent algae blooms.\u201d He chose not to comment on fish farm politics.<\/p>\n

\"Billy-Proctor-Museum\"
Billy Proctor outside his jetsam and flotsam museum. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We conveyed more diesel to Pierre\u2019s at Echo Bay on Gilford Island, a large marina famous for its Saturday night pig roasts. Around the corner, we met 85-year-old Billy Proctor. He has spent his life here; has fished, logged, hunted in the region and become a minor celebrity. He\u2019s chronicled his adventures in The Heart of the Rain Coast\u2014a Life Story<\/em>. He has also built a museum. The jetsam and flotsam he\u2019s collected over decades are neatly shelved in an oversized shed and include old tools, bottles, stone axes and fishing lures. It\u2019s a great jumble of yesteryear\u2019s collectibles on their way to becoming antiques.<\/p>\n

\"Aurora-Explorer-Cargo-Vessel\"
Aurora allows some leg stretching on the beach, but stops are only as long as it takes to unload and load freight. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For David and me, the trips satisfied some of our lust to be on the water. That never goes away! For our Toronto friends Jim and Carol, it was the wildlife that most enchanted them. \u201cSeeing lazing sea lions and breaching humpback whales in their natural habitat was thrilling,\u201d said Carol. \u201dThe other thing was the magical variations of B.C. light that transformed the mountains and ocean into a melody of moods.\u201d Jim added, \u201cthe Aurora Explorer<\/em> allowed us an intimate experience with the wild coast without having to charter a boat, sidestepping worries about tides and currents. An excellent voyage.\u201d<\/p>\n

<\/span><\/div>\n

Follow Up Facts<\/span>Aurora Explorer<\/em> has been owned by Marine Link<\/strong>, marinelinktours.com<\/a> since 1990. As a 135-foot craft, she was widened and lengthened in 1999. <\/span>
\nFrom April through October, Aurora Explorer<\/em> operates two five-day freighter\/wildlife tours that switch weekly\u2014the Discovery Island route<\/a> and Broughton Archipelago route<\/a>. For both routes, the ship departs Tuesdays from Menzies Bay, near Campbell River on Vancouver Island.
\nFor each departure, the ship<\/a> hosts 12 passengers in six cabins with twin beds. The majority of guests are of retirement age. Lavatories and showers are separate from cabins; lavatories are separated by gender; showers are unisex. Cabins are comfortable, but not luxurious. The stairways are narrow and steep but have strong bannisters. The ship is not suitable for people using wheelchairs or walkers. Several passengers used canes.<\/span>
\nThe crew\u2014captain, mate, engineer, deckhand, cook and steward\u2014are highly skilled and gladly explain the ship\u2019s operation. Two captains switch roles every week, so a backup captain is always aboard. The chef shops for local foods, regional wines, and accommodates food allergies. The food service was outstanding, sometimes including freshly caught shrimp and salmon. Breakfasts had a full range of hot and cold items, lunch was a cold buffet, and a hot meal was served at dinner. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Broughton-Archipelago-Log-Raft\"
A log raft at Big Bay Landing, visited during our Broughton Archipelago tour. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Marianne Scott <\/strong>writes for marine and other publications in Canada, the U.S., and Australia. She has authored Naturally Salty\u2014Coastal Characters of the Pacific Northwest, published by TouchWood Editions. She also wrote a commissioned coffee-table book for the Taiwanese luxury yacht builder entitled, Ocean Alexander\u2014the First 25 Years. She co-authored Vancouver boatbuilder Ben Vermeulen\u2019s memoir, Before I Forget. She\u2019s completing a book on the craft distilleries on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Email: mariannescott@scottpoint.ca<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Enjoy other articles by Marianne Scott in our feature article collection:<\/h3>\n

A Walk Through Berlin\u2019s Public Art<\/a>
\nMusic Sounds Better by the Sea<\/a>
\nSpain\u2019s Self-Catering Apartments or Hotel Accommodation: Which Works Best?<\/a>
\nAn Exploration of Oregon\u2019s Wild Pacific Coast<\/a>
\nA Geological Adventure in Utah\u2019s National Parks<\/a>
\nNine Tips for Safe, Sane Travel with Family, Friends, or Strangers<\/a>
\nExploring Ancient Rome Underground<\/a> <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Marine Wildlife Viewing on a Freighter Cruise British Columbia’s Working West Coast Story and images by Marianne Scott On a sunny Tuesday afternoon in August, we crossed Aurora Explorer\u2019s lowered ramp to enter its deck filled with trucks, forklifts, bundled cable, diesel tankers, dumpsters and shrink-wrapped mattresses. The 135-foot landing craft delivers freight and hosts […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/12726"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=12726"}],"version-history":[{"count":27,"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/12726\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14956,"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/12726\/revisions\/14956"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.travelwithachallenge.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=12726"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}